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How To Repair Cruise Control 1992 Chevy Pickup

Username Post: Cruise Control Problem 92 GMC (Topic#218536)
Chris O. 
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06-05-09 01:20 PM - Post#1711699    

First I unplugged the servo and so I tested the gray and brown wires coming off the brake switch. When I turned the key on and left the cruise off the dark-brown wire had no power, I turned the cruise on and checked the grayness, I accept power at that place.

My question is, what does this mean?

Thanks in advance.

Chris

'99 Z71 ii Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-05-09 02:41 PM - Postal service#1711734    
In response to Chris O.

I would say it means your cruise on/off switch is working as it should. And I'd bet if you pressed on the brake pedal, you would become ability to the brown too nether the aforementioned circumstances.

Edited past Billy_Bob on 06-05-09 02:47 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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Bill K.b 
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06-06-09 01:37 AM - Mail#1711929    
In response to Billy_Bob

If it's not working I think 9 times out of 10 it's a vaccuum result. I was examining mine and found lines off it hooked to zip at all.

Those who tin can, practise. Those who can't, criticize it on the internet.

Driving 2002 Express 2500
2002 Express 2500 extended
1988 G20 conversion
1993 GMC 3500 dually

Plus cars for swap and sale
& yep, I once tried a frame swap on a 51 Chevy.


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someotherguy 
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06-06-09 06:16 AM - Post#1711986    
In response to Neb K.b

No vacuum on '92 cruise command, or on any of the cruise setups on this body style of truck. All electronic. The #ane suspect in this style is usually the wiring within the lever, #ii the switches themselves, including the restriction switch.

The "on" switch providing power at that end isn't the whole story, the system is just armed then. You withal need to actuate information technology by pressing set or resume, then in that location'southward ii more functions that still may not be working due to wiring or switch bug.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


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Chris O. 
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06-x-09 03:25 PM - Mail#1714754    
In response to someotherguy

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Co-ordinate to what I have read, both wires should have power coming off the switch itself. I have tried pushing the pedal, wiggling wires, etc. Still no juice in the brown wire. Is information technology the switch at this point? I don't know if it matters, simply the TC lock up works just as it should.

Thanks,

Chris

'99 Z71 ii Door Tahoe


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Chris O. 
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06-10-09 04:44 PM - Mail service#1714807    
In response to Chris O.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of this organisation? Is there a procedure for testing the functions of the stalk?

Thank you,

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-x-09 04:55 PM - Postal service#1714812    
In response to Chris O.

The brownish wire should become to the cruise control switch release connexion on the cruise command module, which when you lot step on the brakes or press on the prowl release switch, disengages the cruise control.

And then this should have +12 volts simply when the brake is pressed or when the prowl release switch is pressed and the cruise command switch is on.


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Chris O. 
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06-10-09 05:00 PM - Post#1714823    
In response to Billy_Bob

So, if I am not getting power to this wire under any circumstance, is information technology the brake switch or something else?

Thanks,
Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-11-09 07:56 AM - Mail service#1715093    
In response to Chris O.

Permit's endeavour this...

What is the problem you are having with your prowl control?

Does it work, but volition not turn off when you hit the brake?


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Chris O. 
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06-11-09 09:13 AM - Post#1715145    
In response to Billy_Bob

I thought I had spelled that out in the first postal service, but failed to mention the almost important part!

Cruise command is not performance at all.

Thanks,

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-11-09 12:49 PM - Postal service#1715246    
In response to Chris O.

OK turn on the ignition and turn on the prowl control switch.

The connector to the cruise control is a long oval shape with two rows of pins. Imagine the top of this oval is where you press the button on the connector to release it.

Then with that in mind, measure the voltage between the top row furthest left terminal and the bottom row furthest left terminal. (Ignition on and ground)

What practise you lot become?

Then measure the voltage betwixt the bottom row furthest to the correct pin and the bottom row furthest to the left pin (on/off and ground)

What do you go?


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Billy_Bob 
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06-eleven-09 03:33 PM - Mail service#1715343    
In response to Billy_Bob

By the way...

The first exam above should be the Pinkish/Black wire and the Black/White wire.

The 2nd examination above should exist the Grey wire and the Black/White Wire.


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Chris O. 
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06-12-09 06:33 AM - Post#1715696    
In response to Billy_Bob
  • Billy_Bob Said:

By the way...

The outset exam above should be the Pink/Black wire and the Black/White wire.

The 2d test above should exist the Gray wire and the Black/White Wire.

OK, I accept approx. 12v at both sets of wires.

Thanks Billy Bob,

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-12-09 08:22 AM - Post#1715749    
In response to Chris O.

OK, things are looking good for the wiring. You take ignition power and power on from the switch.

Adjacent check the Vehicle Speed Sensor signal (VSS). This is the top furthest correct terminal or the Brown/White wire. So i test lead on this and the other test atomic number 82 on ground.

The VSS is a "pulse" of electricity and only happens when the vehicle is moving. Electricity goes on, off, on, off, etc. every bit the vehicle moves. And then perhaps you lot could employ a paperclip shoved into the final and a wire connected to that, then lead that into your cab. Then also connect the other test pb to ground somewhere. And then maybe close the hood without latching. Or maybe you accept "alligator clip" exam wires and you could adhere ane end to the paperclip and the other to a test lead.

Identify the multimeter on DC volts. Then when you lot drive, you lot should get some sort of reading. The faster you go, the higher the reading should be.

Likewise if driving slowly, you lot may be able to place the multimeter leaning against the windshield and see it from inside.

Be careful that none of the bare alligator clips, test leads, etc. touch any metallic on the vehicle. Maybe place some record on them or place pieces of cardboard under them.

Anyway the cruise command needs to know how fast the vehicle is going. It does this with this signal. It will not operate nether certain speeds and uses this signal for that. Likewise information technology uses this point to keep the vehicle going at the same speed.

Needless to say, if this indicate is not at that place, the cruise command will think the vehicle is non moving! Thus will never plow on!

Alligator clip test leads...

Edited by Billy_Bob on 06-12-09 08:25 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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someotherguy 
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06-12-09 09:01 AM - Post#1715778    
In response to Billy_Bob

If the speedometer is working, you can skip the speed sensor examination.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


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Chris O. 
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06-12-09 09:17 AM - Post#1715792    
In response to someotherguy

The speedometer works simply equally it should and the test confirmed the VSS is fine.

What else is at that place? I am unemployed this is keeping me busy.

Thanks guys,

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-12-09 04:03 PM - Post#1716026    
In response to Chris O.

Well the speedometer could exist working, only the wire to the cruise control open up, so best to test to be sure.

Anyhow it is looking like the module is bad, But a couple of more tests....

There are 3 more than wires on the connector to examination. They are...

release - bottom row 2nd pin chocolate-brown wire. (Brake switch)
retard - bottom row 3rd pivot nighttime green wire. (RES/Accel)
appoint - bottom row 4th pivot dark blue wire. (Set/Coast)

With ignition on and cruise on, none of the above should take 12 volts on them unless... the brake pedal is pressed, the RES/Accel is pressed, or the Set/Declension is pressed respectively.

If ane of these does have 12 volts on it, I suppose this could proceed the cruise control from activating. Look for a wiring short or bad associated switch. If y'all do find one with 12 volts on information technology all the time, I can tell y'all where the wires go somewhat.

If none of them have 12 volts, so a very loftier probability the cruise control module is bad.


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Billy_Bob 
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06-12-09 04:10 PM - Postal service#1716029    
In response to Billy_Bob

BTW - If you have null better to do, might desire to bank check the...

retard (RES/Accel)
and
engage (Set up/Coast)

...every bit actually being that. The higher up is what it says in my book, but information technology seems to me they should be reversed! You do find errors in these books from time to fourth dimension


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Chris O. 
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06-12-09 05:13 PM - Post#1716072    
In response to Billy_Bob

Well, I accept ability everywhere except at the brown brake light wire only as I confirmed at the switch itself under the dash.

BTW, you were correct in your cess of the retard=resume/accel, engage=ready/coast wires. I recollect that is bass-ackwards every bit well.

I am stumped at this bespeak, the brake low-cal wire should only prevent me from canceling the cruise, not prevent it from working, correct? Information technology is bad, I may as well replace that first?

Thanks for busting out the book,

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe

Edited by Chris O. on 06-12-09 05:26 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

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Billy_Bob 
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06-12-09 07:47 PM - Post#1716149    
In response to Chris O.

You should *Non* take power at the last 3 yous checked!

Y'all don't desire power at those 3 wires unless the switches are pressed or the brake pedal is pressed!


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Chris O. 
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06-12-09 07:fifty PM - Post#1716152    
In response to Billy_Bob

Right, I should have been more clear. I take power when I activate the feature, except for the brake lite wire, nada there at all.

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-12-09 08:33 PM - Post#1716168    
In response to Chris O.

Well the cruise command should work with the brake disable office not working. Simply would not disengage if yous pressed on the brake.

So far equally the brake "release" brown wire 2d pin over on the bottom, my diagram shows unlike things depending on if you lot have an automatic or manual.

So automatic or manual transmission?

For automatic, information technology shows the chocolate-brown wire going through the main electric bulkhead into the cab. So going to a "brake switch".

And then the other connection on this switch has a light light-green wire which goes from this to a "cruise release switch".

Then a gray wire comes off of the other connector on that and connects to the prowl on/off wiring.

The above does not make sense and I tried finding the location of the "brake switch" as called in my diagrams, only it shows it as a courtesy light!

So anyway you lot will need to trace the wires. Seems to me in that location would exist only one brake switch!

Basically you should go +12 volts to a final on a brake switch when the ignition is on and the cruise command is turned on. Then this 12 volts should continue on to the brownish wire when the restriction pedal is pressed and this would release the cruise command.

So press brake, become 12 volts to the 2nd lower brown wire connection.

If there is 12 volts to i terminal on the brake switch and this turns on/off as you turn on/off the cruise control, you take the right switch.

The when there is 12 volts present on one terminal of that switch because the cruise control is on, and you pace on the brake, and the other terminal does not then get 12 volts, then yous have a bad switch.


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06-13-09 06:58 AM - Post#1716264    
In response to Billy_Bob

If I may put in my two cents worth, the cruise command did non work for the previous owner of my 92 Silverado. I followed the t-shooting chart in the manufactory service manual and all voltage/ohms were as specified. Merely when I replaced the steering column, which came with a new switch did the cruise command start working. Then from my experience if you do not observe any wiring/voltage/ohm issues and so try the wiper/prowl switch. I had to replace my column due to the locking mechanism breaking deep inside, and so I am non
recommending you supersede your column. Adept luck with yours...Supetrug


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someotherguy 
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06-xiii-09 07:17 AM - Post#1716276    
In response to supertug

I've never gone through all the indepth troubleshooting steps on the 88-94 prowl organization; it's been my experience that it's almost always the lever, and sometimes the brake switch. The lever is a double-hickey because sometimes the switches in it neglect, just usually the wiring is broken from years of flexing during turn signal or loftier beam utilise.

I've replaced a lot of the levers. My current truck, the '94 C2500LD, didn't have working prowl when I bought information technology - I decided I'd effort "cleaning" the switches outset. I soaked the lever down in DeOxit contact cleaner and worked the switches repeatedly, finally it began working enough that I can turn information technology on and set it. Resume/tap upwardly yet do not work though.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


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Chris O. 
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06-thirteen-09 08:05 AM - Post#1716298    
In response to someotherguy

I called a buddy last night who had an outcome with his Tahoes cruise control. He said when he had his Tahoe looked at, the the cease calorie-free switch was bad and the tech told him that it basically thought the brake was always on. Which did non make sense in my state of affairs because the wire for the brake abolish was completely cold whether the restriction was pressed or not.

So, I ran to the parts shop this morn and picked upwards a stop calorie-free switch. I swapped information technology out in their lot and took a spin non expecting annihilation keen, but as it turns out the $8 part took intendance of the problem.

The grey and brown wires are in a connector that goes to the brake or terminate low-cal switch. The greyness wire is energized when the cruise is turned on, the chocolate-brown is supposed to be energized when the brake is pressed...

Thank you for the assistance and input from anybody!

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-13-09 09:36 AM - Post#1716336    
In response to Chris O.

Well that is interesting that this would make the prowl control work!

They are quite smart at designing these things to avoid safety problems. Peradventure the prowl module wants to see at least ane brake input before it will work? (To be certain the brake switch is working.)

And if you lot think about information technology, yous would ever printing on the brake at least once earlier driving away.

I'll have to try starting off without pressing on the brake and see if the cruise still works.


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Chris O. 
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06-13-09 eleven:11 AM - Post#1716381    
In response to Billy_Bob

Out of marvel I took my DVOM to the truck. With the ignition turned on, it reads no power on the chocolate-brown wire when the cruise is off, 12v when prowl is turned on, and no power when the brake pedal is pushed. We were looking at information technology backwards. It makes sense that the prowl was sensing the restriction pedal was pushed because it did not have 12v going to it when the pedal was not being pushed. Must be a broken or possibly muddy contact in the old switch.

Cheers,

Chris

'99 Z71 2 Door Tahoe


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Billy_Bob 
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06-13-09 02:44 PM - Postal service#1716467    
In response to Chris O.

Ahhhh!

Helps to know these things!

My diagram shows two switches which say "closes" when brake depressed. (I changed it to opens.)

Anyway that makes more sense, and then if there is something wrong with this *important* circuit, the cruise control will not work. (As was your instance.) And yous wouldn't desire it to work if you couldn't plough information technology off by striking the brake.

I'll bet they kickoff designed it with switches which close, then changed information technology and never updated the drawings.

Cheers for checking on that! Skilful work!


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06-13-09 02:51 PM - Mail#1716470    
In response to Billy_Bob

Just wanted to add that I wasn't trying to imply that people shouldn't test things before replacing. I'm a big believer in TESTING first. Diagrams can be misleading sometimes, which appears to have been the case here.

Fact remains, the usual suspects in this example are the lever and the brake switch.

I don't think I've always seen a cruise module itself go bad unless it was physically damaged somehow, like in a wreck, fire, or flood. Which is good - you don't want to know how much the dealer gets for these. The good news is, if yours did go damaged, your chances of finding a good one in a os yard are pretty high.

Richard

06 Silverado ISS / 06 Silverado SS / 06 300C SRT8


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Chris O. 
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06-13-09 03:16 PM - Post#1716489    
In response to someotherguy
  • someotherguy Said:

Just wanted to add that I wasn't trying to imply that people shouldn't test things before replacing. I'one thousand a big believer in TESTING first. Diagrams can be misleading sometimes, which appears to take been the case hither.


Exactly, and I didn't recall you were implying that in any style. I don't like spending money on parts I don't need. In this instance I really did not desire to fifty-fifty pony upwards the dough for a stalk. $viii is a bunch cheaper, but when everything started to point at the switch, I went with information technology.
  • someotherguy Said:

Fact remains, the usual suspects in this example are the lever and the brake switch.

For the last three years I thought information technology was the lever, I never cared enough to check into it. Now that it is all prettied up again, I want everything to piece of work!

  • someotherguy Said:

I don't think I've ever seen a cruise module itself become bad unless it was physically damaged somehow, like in a wreck, fire, or flood. Which is practiced - you lot don't want to know how much the dealer gets for these. The proficient news is, if yours did get damaged, your chances of finding a good one in a bone yard are pretty high.
Richard

A reman unit is non too bad. But still, no cheers. I know where approx. x of these trucks are sitting, but I wasn't going there until I could confirm ane way or another.

Again, thanks for the suggestions from all!

Chris

'99 Z71 ii Door Tahoe


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How To Repair Cruise Control 1992 Chevy Pickup,

Source: https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/218536

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